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Bag1201/29

Densely embroidered, multi-coloured, flat, square envelope style bag or purse made by folding and stitching a square piece so that three of its corners meet in the centre, leaving the fourth corner free as a flap. The intricate geometric embroidered designs are worked in silk floss on a cotton textile and are so densely worked that the background textile is almost invisible. In addition to stitchery, the piece is embellished with mirrors and red and black pompoms. The embroidery is backed with blue-green cotton textile.

Culture
Meghwal ?
Material
cotton fibre, dye, glass, metal and silk fibre
Made in
India ? or Pakistan ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Textile1201/32

Multi-coloured embroidered and beaded square textile. The embroidery is predominantly orange, with deep pink and purple accents, worked in chain stitch on green silk background; the design field is divided into four identical quadrants, separated by rows of gold metallic braid. In each corner of the textile, and in the centre, are prominent multi-coloured discs (known as ‘dress flowers’); each disc is decorated with glass beads arranged in concentric circles around a small mirror. All edges of the square are trimmed with a short, heavy fringe of white glass beads. The discs are stiffened, probably with light weight cardboard. The piece is backed with red cotton textile.

Culture
Hazara ? or Pashtun ?
Material
cotton fibre, dye, glass, metal, plastic ?, silk fibre and paper
Made in
Afghanistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Garment811/7

Woman’s burqa, a long, flowing, overall body covering. The garment envelops the entire body, head to feet, and consists of a pillbox headpiece, a mesh facepiece and a full sack-like covering, embellished with embroidery and fine pleating. Extends to the hips in front and to the feet in the back. The mesh facepiece is worked in counted-thread openwork embroidery. An embroidered panel that extends to the hip area in the front is finely stitched with floral and geometric motifs. The back is finely pleated and is a darker green than the front. Two shades of dark green, with dark green embroidery.

Culture
Pashtun: Kuchi
Material
dye, rayon fibre ?, silk fibre ? and cotton fibre
Made in
Ghazni, Afghanistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Shirt964/3

Loose fitting shirt or tunic made from densely embroidered white-on-white textile and embellished with panels of multi-coloured silk embroidery at the shoulder yoke (front and back) and wrists. The textile used to construct the shirt has been embroidered overall with matching light weight yarns in a variegated vertical stripe pattern, using a counted thread technique, before the garment was cut and sewn. The panels of embroidery on the shoulders and wrists are worked in multi-coloured silk thread, using a satin stitch, to form geometric patterns that are predominantly red, outlined with black or green. The simple round neck and front slit opening are trimmed with black cotton textile, piped with red and embellished with decorative machine stitching. There is a small ball button and loop at the neck. The sleeves are wide and straight. The garment hangs loosely from the shoulders and is A-line in shape. The hem is piped with red cotton textile; there are two side slits at the hemline.

Culture
Hazara ?
Material
cotton fibre, dye, silk fibre and wool fibre ?
Made in
Northwest Frontier, Pakistan ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Coat701/4

Man’s wool coat with blue designs. The coat is made from narrow widths of dense, coarse wool textile that has been fulled and embroidered. The coat has long sleeves, side slits and centre front opening with three buttons. The edges of the opening, sleeves and hem have a triangular motif. On the front of the coat the embroidered designs consist of vertical rows of small circles On the back the designs include tree of life, diamond and ram’s horn motifs. The embroidery thread is indigo-dyed (?) wool fibre.

Culture
Nuristani ?
Material
wool fibre, plastic and indigo dye ?
Made in
Nuristan, Afghanistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Dress1201/1

Woman’s dress with multicoloured bodice, wrist-length wide sleeves, and very full, closely gathered skirt. The bodice front is embellished with a densely embroidered panel of floral forms and tree of life motifs in orange, white and green in chain stitch on maroon ground; appliquéd over the embroidery are four large, thick discs embellished with silver thread embroidery and mirrors on black ground, two located at the centre front and two over the breasts; the bodice back is made from deep pink and black striped textile. The neck opening is trimmed with silver thread embroidery; there is a button and loop made of twisted fibre at the centre back neckline. The sleeves consist of panels of red and orange cotton textile; wide cuffs are embellished with chain stitch embroidery on black cotton textile. The front of the skirt is made of plain black cotton textile; the back of the skirt is pieced from panels of machine-printed deep pink cotton textile and deep pink plain cotton broadcloth. Where the bodice and skirt join at the high waist, there is a large, red, triangular amulet attached at centre front, embellished with silver thread embroidery and silk or rayon tassels trimmed with cowrie shells and beads. A pocket is located on the left side of the skirt. Lengths of twisted brown cord hang from the sides of the bodice. The bodice is lined with coarsely woven cotton. There is a horizontal tuck in the skirt at hip level, and a there is a large plastic button on each shoulder.

Culture
Pashtun: Kuchi
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre ?, rayon fibre ?, metal, cowrie shell, glass, plastic and dye
Made in
Afghanistan ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Tunic701/3

Man’s tailored white tunic with cuffed sleeves, centre opening, side slits and a mandarin collar. The tunic is made of an off-white rayon (acetate?) textile with a twill weave and a slightly shiny surface. There are five small plastic buttons evenly spaced along the inside of the collar with hand made button holes. The tunic opens in the centre front, held together by a metal clasp and seven white plastic buttons hidden by a placket. It is lightly fitted through the bodice but flares from the waist to hem. The right side of the centre front opening is widened by means of an extension, from the neckline to just below the waist. A tab and button inside at the waist secures the extension to the side seam. There are single-welt pockets on either side of the chest and in-seam pockets below the waist. There are small shoulder pads and the tunic is partially lined from the shoulders to hip.

Culture
Afghan ?
Material
rayon fibre, plastic, metal and dye ?
Made in
Afghanistan ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Textile1201/7

A length of silk warp-face ikat textile, with large-scale, bold, stylized motifs in blue, white and yellow on a yellow background. Red selvages. Torn edges on both ends.

Culture
Uzbek
Material
silk fibre and dye
Made in
Kabul, Afghanistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Footed Pants811/8

Woman’s very loose-fitting, grey-blue drawstring pants with attached foot coverings. Made of cotton, rayon or cotton/silk textile. The pink drawstring is made of braided cording. There are large gussets in the front and back at the crotch area. At the ankle, the fullness of the textile is finely pleated onto the attached foot coverings, which resemble socks and are shaped to fit the foot; the tops are made of the same textile as the pants and are embroidered with slightly darker floss in a dense floral pattern; the soles are black. The garment is pieced in places.

Culture
Pashtun: Kuchi
Material
cotton fibre, dye, silk fibre ? and rayon fibre ?
Made in
Ghazni, Afghanistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Textile1201/5

A length of silk warp-face ikat textile, with large-scale, bold, stylized motifs in blue, white and yellow on a yellow background. Red selvages. Torn edges on both ends.

Culture
Uzbek
Material
silk fibre and dye
Made in
Kabul, Afghanistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record