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Wedding Tunic1201/14

Orange women’s tunic with embroidery and appliqué. The tunic has a high, square neckline. The front has a large embroidered panel from the shoulder to hip. The embroidery on this panel is so elaborately detailed and so densely worked that none of the background textile is visible, and this part of the tunic is very stiff. Within this panel are small- and medium-sized circular, diamond and double diamond shaped motifs arranged in rectangular groupings, and numerous very small mirrors. Below the panel are three horizontal panels of silk and cotton textile (yellow; light green; orange) embroidered with triangular, diamond and floral border designs worked in black thread, accented with several colours and metallic thread. The back of the tunic has a centre back opening with braided ties. Pouches made of orange silk textile and containing small amounts of dried plant material are sewn into the top edge on both sides of the neck opening. On the back there is a large panel of orange nylon(?), embroidered with multicoloured circular medallions and edged with diamond shaped border motifs, silver coloured sequins and white rickrack. Strips of light green and orange silk textile, edged with black braid and white rickrack, form side panels that connect the front and the back of the garment. The front of the tunic is slightly longer than the back. The sleeves are elbow-length and close fitting, made of bands of silk and cotton textile (orange; red; dark green; yellow) embroidered with cross stitch and decorated with sequins, braid and rickrack. All panels, strips and bands are underlined with cotton textile. A label made of off-white cotton textile, printed with a rubber stamp and handwritten with ball-point ink, is attached at the neck edge on the front with a loose running stitch.

Culture
Lohana ?, Pallari ? or Burati ?
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, synthetic fibre, glass, silver alloy metal, plant and dye
Made in
Thando Bula Khan, Sindh, Pakistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Child's Dress1201/13

Small red dress with embroidery. The dress has a v-neck with a loop closure, short sleeves and full skirt with side slits. A piece of dark blue cotton with a floral pattern is beneath the v-neck opening. Around the neck is a thick geometric border in with mirrors and metal sequins. The sleeves have bands of various widths with braid, rickrack and metal sequins. There are triangular gussets under the sleeves. The skirt has embroidered circles in orange, green and brown and edged with white on red ground. A purple silk overlay covers the red skirt. The bottom hem has yellow cotton crocheted trim worked in a scallop stitch. The inside is unlined. There is a white label inside the neck that says ‘Made in Afghanistan’.

Culture
Lohana ?, Pallari ? or Burati ?
Material
silk fibre, cotton fibre, glass, silver alloy metal and dye
Made in
Thando Bula Khan, Sindh, Pakistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Backless Blouse1098/9

Woman’s or child’s backless blouse made from a large embroidered panel which forms the entire front of the blouse. There is a vertical neck opening at the centre front, bound with pale grey-green cotton textile; the blouse fastens at the centre back neckline with ties made of cotton textile (one made of printed textile and one plain). Square front shoulder yokes are decorated with mirror and pompoms; diamond-shaped geometric forms are worked in purple, off-white and red silk thread. The same designs also appear below the yoke, forming a cross shape, bordered with a black braid made from thick bundles of thread which have been couched onto the surface. The bottom portion of the blouse is embellished with scattered, multi-coloured, embroidered geometric forms and mirrorwork. The hem and sides are bordered with plain green and plain red cotton textile. The sleeves are bordered with red and gold rayon or silk brocade and plain green cotton textile. On the back, separate, small shoulder yokes made from panels of red cotton broadcloth are sewn at the shoulders and at the underarms, forming close-fitting, abbreviated sleeves. The embroidery is underlined with grey cotton gauze.

Culture
South Asian
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal and dye
Made in
Sindh, Pakistan ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Wedding Tunic1201/12

A multicoloured woman’s tunic that is embellished with panels and bands of embroidery on both the front and the back, incorporating several styles of embroidery. On the front, there is a large embroidered panel from shoulder to hip, and the upper edge of this panel extends over the shoulders to form a narrow yoke on the back. The embroidery on this panel is so elaborately detailed and so densely worked that none of the background textile is visible, and this part of the tunic is very stiff. Design elements in this embroidered panel include circular motifs enclosed within squares, a border of stylized floral ornaments and many small mirrors. Below the densely embroidered panel on the front are three solid coloured horizontal bands of silk and cotton textile (orange and yellow; purple and green; bright pink and red), embellished with black embroidered edging and rickrack. The back of the tunic has a centre-back neckline slit (30 cm) with twisted fibre ties. Pouches made of yellow and black striped cotton textile and containing small amounts of dried plant material are sewn into the top of the neck edge on both sides of the neckline slit. Below the back shoulder yoke, a large panel of light purple cotton textile, embroidered with scattered, multicoloured medallions and bordered with a repeated triangular motif, extends to the hemline; a narrow horizontal band of machine printed red cotton textile separates the shoulder yoke from this panel. Narrow vertical strips of plain silk and cotton textile form side panels that connect the front to the back. The front of the tunic is slightly shorter than the back. Elbow-length, close-fitting sleeves are made of solid coloured bands of silk and cotton textile, embroidered with metal-wrapped thread and coloured sequins. All panels and bands are underlined with cotton textile (orange; purple; pink). A label made of off-white cotton textile, printed with a rubber stamp and handwritten with ball-point ink, is attached at the neck edge on the front with a loose running stitch.

Culture
Lohana ?, Pallari ? or Burati ?
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal, plant and dye
Made in
Thando Bula Khan, Sindh, Pakistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Wedding Tunic1201/9

A multicoloured woman’s tunic that is embellished with panels and bands of embroidery on both the front and the back, incorporating several styles of embroidery. On the front, there is a large embroidered panel from shoulder to hip, and the upper edge of this panel extends over the shoulders to form a narrow yoke on the back. The embroidery on this panel is so elaborately detailed and so densely worked that very little of the background textile (red-orange tie-dyed silk) is visible, and this part of the tunic is very stiff. Design elements in this embroidered panel include many small circular motifs arranged in vertical and horizontal stripes. Three very large circular motifs are at the bottom of the panel. Many small glass mirrors are part of the design. The neckline is squared and close fitting. Below the densely embroidered panel on the front are three solid coloured horizontal bands of silk and cotton textile (orange; light green; purple), embroidered with densely-stitched decorative medallions and bordered with diamond, square and circular motifs. The back of the tunic has a centre-back neckline slit (26.5 cm) with braided fibre ties. Pouches made of purple silk textile and containing small amounts of dried plant material are sewn into the top of the neck edge on both sides of the neckline slit. Below the back shoulder yoke is a large panel of yellow cotton textile, embroidered with multicoloured circular medallions that are enclosed within black triangular compartments, each bordered with small multicoloured triangles. Narrow vertical strips of silk textile (magenta; purple) edged with braid and rickrack form side panels that connect the front to the back. Elbow-length close fitting sleeves are made of solid coloured bands of cotton textile (orange; purple; rose), trimmed with embroidery, braid rickrack. All panels and bands are underlined with cotton textile. A label made of off-white cotton textile, printed with a rubber stamp and handwritten with ball-point ink, is attached at the neck edge on the front with a loose running stitch.

Culture
Lohana ?, Pallari ? or Burati ?
Material
silk fibre, cotton fibre, glass, silver alloy metal, plant and dye
Made in
Thando Bula Khan, Sindh, Pakistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Tunic1098/8

Woman’s tunic; the front is heavily embroidered with multi-coloured designs on red-orange tie-dyed silk, and the back is made of plain red cotton textile. There are floral designs, mirrors and small pompoms over the entire surface of the tunic front. A large diamond-shaped panel of off-white embroidery surrounds the placket opening at the centre front. The placket and a narrow stand-up collar are made of plain light green silk textile trimmed with machine stitching. The armholes are trimmed with silk fringe. At the hem is a border of embroidered flowers and mirrors, finished with a edging of filmy blue and white braid. The back of the tunic is made of plain red-orange cotton textile; a strip of red cotton (16 cm) is sewn at the hemline. The embroidery is underlined with red-orange cotton textile.

Culture
South Asian
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal and dye
Made in
Sindh, Pakistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Backless Blouse1098/7

Woman’s backless blouse, made from several large, very elaborately embroidered, multi-coloured panels. The top portion of the blouse is embellished with circular motifs, large clusters of yellow, red and green glass beads and mirrorwork; a large rectangular portion is outlined with small white cowrie shells to form a bib effect. The neckline is high and squared; it fastens at the centre back with cloth ties made from printed cotton textile. Below the waist, an embroidered rectangular panel is divided into four squares, each embroidered with mirrors and geometric shapes; each square is outlined with small white cowrie shells. Over-all, many of the designs are outlined with a silver “braid” formed by tightly coiling a very narrow ribbon of metal into a long strip, which is attached to the surface with a couching stitch. The hem and sides, as well as the sleeve edges, are bordered with black embroidery, white rickrack and many small tassels made from yellow and green beads and black, yellow and orange pompoms. Back shoulder yokes, underarm gussets and narrow side panels are pieced from brightly coloured, machine-printed cotton textiles. The embroidery is underlined with red and multi-coloured printed cotton gauze. A pocket made from green striped cotton textile is attached on the inside at the lower right-hand side.

Culture
South Asian
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, cowrie shell ?, silver alloy metal and dye
Made in
Sindh, Pakistan ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Backless Blouse1098/5

Woman’s backless blouse, made from a large, heavily embroidered panel which forms the entire front of the blouse. Blouse has green background with red, white, yellow, black, orange and blue embroidered features, and mirrors. The top portion of the blouse is embroidered with geometric designs, consisting of red and white flowers and yellow chains grouped into square elements which are edged with black cotton braid. There is a vertical neck opening at the centre front edged in orange. The lower portion of the blouse forms an apron effect and is embellished with scattered multicoloured designs. Borders at the sides and bottom incorporate diamond and lozenge shapes in dark red. On the back, separate, small shoulder yokes made from panels of dark red cotton broadcloth are sewn at the shoulders and at the underarms, forming close-fitting, abbreviated sleeves. One glass bead is sewn into the design on the right shoulder of the garment. The embroidery is underlined with red silk textile.

Culture
South Asian
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal and dye
Made in
Sindh, Pakistan ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Wedding Tunic1201/8

A multicoloured woman’s tunic that is embellished with panels and bands of embroidery on both the front and the back, incorporating several styles of embroidery. The colours are muted. On the front, there is a large embroidered panel from shoulder to hip, and the upper edge of this panel extends over the shoulders to form a narrow yoke on the back. The embroidery on this panel is so elaborately detailed and so densely worked that none of the background textile is visible, and this part of the tunic is very stiff. Design elements in this embroidered panel include small circular and double-diamond motifs arranged in rectangular strips, embellished with very small mirrors. Below the densely embroidered panel on the front are three solid coloured horizontal bands of silk and cotton textile (light yellow-orange; light green; light orange), embroidered with triangular, diamond and floral motifs and bordered with braid and rickrack. The back of the tunic has a centre-back neckline slit (29 cm) with twisted fibre ties. Below the back shoulder yoke, a large panel of yellowish white cotton textile is divided into large rectangular compartments that are bordered with red triangular motifs. A narrow horizontal band of machine printed textile separates the shoulder yoke from this panel. Narrow vertical strips of plain cotton textile (light yellow; green; red), edged with braid, form side panels that connect the front to the back. There is a small pocket in the right-hand side seam. Elbow-length, close fitting sleeves are made of solid coloured bands of cotton textile (light yellow; light green; light red), trimmed with silk embroidery, braid and white rickrack. All panels and bands are underlined with cotton textile. A label made of off-white cotton textile, printed with a rubber stamp and handwritten with ball-point ink, is attached at the neck edge on the front with a loose running stitch.

Culture
Lohana ?, Pallari ? or Burati ?
Material
cotton fibre
Made in
Thando Bula Khan, Sindh, Pakistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record
Vest1200/9

Small black wool vest with silver embroidery. The vest has a centre front opening with lower edges that curve upwards. There are dense swirling patterns made of silver metallic braid and thread that has been couched onto the surface of the ground fabric. Blue and green glass beads are incorporated into some of the patterns. All edges are bordered with flat silver braid. The centre opening and bottom edge have small spherical ornaments, made of wood or fibre and been wrapped with silver thread. The inner lining is black silky fabric.

Culture
South Asian
Material
wool fibre, cotton fibre, silk fibre ?, silver metal, glass, wood ? and dye
Made in
Sindh, Pakistan ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record