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Immature golden eagle feather headdress with a beaded headband. Base of feathers wrapped in red felt and made over a felt hat base. Streamers of weasel fur and cloth dangle from headband sides. These types of war bonnets were historically worn for special occasions and may occasionally be worn on the battle field (although men often wore one or two special feathers instead). A man earned the right to make one through his brave deeds. Initially he would be awarded a single feather for each deed; a coup, killing, or horse stealing success. Once he accumulated ten feathers he was generally given permission to obtain the eagle feathers for a full bonnet. Ideally they would have 28 eagle feathers and each may have additional notching to designate an event. The tips of the feathers could be tied with the horsehair if a man had counted many coups. Thus the bonnets became oral histories and each piece signified events in the warrior's life. Feathers were very valuable, i.e., 12 feathers equaled 1 horse. These were worn by warriors, not necessarily "chiefs". Only a few very high ranked warriors would have the bonnets with the long trailers down the back. Today bonnets are still made as recognition for achievements in life, dedication to their community as well as war participation. Golden eagles are a protected bird and Non-natives may not use them, buy them or transport them without special permits.
Brooklyn Museum Collection
After review by several different consultants these mocassins are probably Commanche, although there is a possibility they are Kiowa. Yellow painted mocassins with a beaded arrow design in white, red ,and green on the vamp.
Bequest of W.S. Morton Mead
Bequest of W.S. Morton Mead
Plain deerskin, double thickness woman’s belt with blue pony beads wrapped around both edges. Small black seed beads are used near the fringes. At one time the end fringes were wrapped with orange quills, now mostly dissappeared.
Woman's belt case decorated with multicolored, beaded geometrical designs and tin cones, with remnants of paint in it.
These leggings are constructed with a long "tab" at each hip, near the top and above each outer seam. Below these tabs the outer seams on the rest of both leggings are decorated with one vertical strip of porcupine quillwork on each, outlined with beads in red, white-centered red, and black. The small seed bead and the cornalined'allepo (the white-centered) beads are not usually found on garments this early. Long fringes ornament the outer seams and the base of each strand is wrapped with red porcupine quills. The top and bottom edges of the leggings have short fringes. Shorter tabs are sewn on the bottom. This is generally referred to as bottom tabbed leggings, a style that permitted the tabs to stream along after the wearer when walking, a fashion that existed for only a brief time.
Compared to many other Plains leggings this pair is exceptionally short at 25 inches in length. Most others average over 42 inches on the inside seam and some up to 48 inches, with up to 72 inches on the outside seam. The skin on these leggings is the same light color and texture as matching shirt 50.67.7a. They look new and unworn. The leggings are decorated with a single flap, which are cut into short fringes. These fringes are wrapped with alternating red and blue quills. The top of the leggings have every other fringe cut out to create a toothed effect. Like the shirt, these leggings may be unfinished. There are no ties on the upper portion for looping to a belt or fastening at a thigh flap. However, both leggings have a dart sewn at this area, perhaps indicating that a tie was once attached. There is the possibility that these leggings were made in the Metis fashion, observed on several scouts,as knee high only. This would make them the same length as women's leggings. See Jarvis supplemental file in Arts of Americas office.
This dress shirt matches leggings 50.67.7b-c. A lack of ornamentation suggests it may be unfinished (compare this sparse ornamentation to 50.67.4). The shirt has no pierce work, loom-woven quillwork, or ornamentation on the cuffs. At the neck flap, however, there is an outline of blue beads and at intervals below, an additional two and three bead linear arrangement. There are simply decorated rosettes of concentric rings on either side with centers of plain white skin. Going outward from these centers are rings of quills: light blue; white; red; and a combination of blue and yellow. Following the quills is a ring of white skin, and an outer circle of blue beads. When cleaned in 1992, a fringe damaged by old insect damage became detached at the center of the proper left shoulder. The edges of the torn section were backed and reattached.