The Elizabeth Cole Butler Collection.

Traditional Nez Perce culture places a great value on horses, and both horses and riders wear their finest trappings during parades held at annual encampments and celebrations. This beaded collar is meant to hang from a horse's neck. The beadwork is sewn onto the red wool cloth with an overlay stitch that alternates between horizontal and vertical orientation in the various design areas. The geometric design emphasizes elongated triangles and diamonds in colors of predominantly the same value. The subtle color shift in the blue background is unusual and provides an added feeling of dimension.

The Elizabeth Cole Butler Collection.

The Elizabeth Cole Butler Collection.

Plains Indian people traditionally used porcupine quills to decorate clothing and other items. As glass beads introduced by traders became more and more available, the use of porcupine quills gradually declined, though it never stopped completely.

The Elizabeth Cole Butler Collection.

The Elizabeth Cole Butler Collection.

The Elizabeth Cole Butler Collection. Collected: Elizabeth Cole Butler

By 1900 bandolier bags were considered mostly decorative, to be brought out on important occasions. Chippewa bags of the early twentieth century, such as this one, are often decorated with beadwork applied directly to the cloth in an overlay stitch rather than being woven on a loom. The large panel is beaded with an asymmetrical floral design on a solid white background. Above the large panel a second area is beaded in floral designs without a background. The strap is fully beaded, again with a floral design on a solid white background. This design includes a wild variety of abstract and stylized leaves attached to vines, with a clear emphasis on asymmetry between the elements on each side of the strap.

The Elizabeth Cole Butler Collection. Collected: Elizabeth Cole Butler