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Pad Saddle50.67.14

The saddle is constructed as a heavy pad, enclosed within a durable covering of smoked skins. The skins were cut in an hourglass shape and then sewn together with sinew. The pad itself is stuffed with deer of buffalo hair or, possibly grass as a cushion. A large rectangular piece of Stroud cloth, now brown, has been attached across the center of the saddle. It is finished with two lobe-like shapes and edged with white beads. The seams of the pad are edged with multi-colored quillwork in yellow, light blue, lavender, orange, brown, black and white. Black cotton fringe has been attached to the two narrow ends of the saddle. On each of the longer sides are four elongated cloth tabs, red at the center, tan at the edges and beaded with small geometric forms and lines in white, blue and orange. The tabs are trimmed at the bottom with deer hair tufts and interspersed with a fringe of large black, blue and amber glass beads. A cloth rosette decorates each of the four corners of the pad, containing four interconnected lobes that are fashioned in red, blue and black silk and Stroud cloth and ornamented with beads. Below each rosette are appliquéd lozenge forms or pointed ovals, containing two small triangles placed back to back, also edged with white beads. The remnants of what might be stirrup leathers are concealed under the cloth. They are covered by a lighter, softer skin (deer?). The strap remnants seem to be recycled from some other object - - one side has a green, black and red painted design. Some native repair is evident. See Jarvis supplemental file Arts of Americas office.

Culture
Red River Metis
Material
hide, bead, stroud cloth, quill, cotton fringe, silk ribbon, deer hair, glass bead and brass metal
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Man's Ceremonial Dance Headdress08.491.8693

This headdress was worn perpendicularly at the back of the head, not vertically on the crown, as is common with Native American headdresses of very similar style worn by the Yokuts of Central California. In general structure it resembles Pomo headdresses. Supplementary files: "Dance headress for a man; brown straight feathers rise out of a ruff of soft feathers. A quill pendant hangs from the front of the ruff. Condition: good."

Material
magpie feather, red-shafted flicker quill, goose quill, clamshell bead, glass bead, cotton cord, plant fibre twine and willow rod
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Peyote Rattle11.694.9059

Culin purchased this rattle from Saucy Calf who explained the symbolism to Francis La Flesche. It would have been used in what is now the Native American Church. The gourd is painted with a zigzag line of red paint that represents the crown of thorns. The handle is worked with beads that represent lightning, divided into two parts by a band in the middle. The lower part of this band represents earth and the upper the sky, illustrating man ascending into heaven. The metal attached to the handle reads, “Behold the heart of Jesus is with me."

Culture
Osage
Material
gourd, glass bead, metal, feather, brass metal, sinew, nut ?, seed ? and cork
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Octopus Bag08.491.8896

Made entirely from trade materials, these distinctive cloth pouches were accessories for ceremonial clothing. They were called octopus bags because of their tentacle-like fringes. Some of the Tlingit designs may have been influenced by proximity to the Athabascan groups to the east. The reverse of the bag is plain.The pouch has four double fringe "arms" and a black wool strap.

Culture
Tlingit and Gwa'sala Kwakwaka'wakw
Material
wool, cotton and glass bead
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Shirt32.2099.32584

Bequest of W.S. Morton Mead

Culture
Blackfoot, Eastern and Sioux
Material
buckskin, glass bead and sinew
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Woman's Brush Dance Skirt06.331.7923

This skirt would be worn wrapped from back around the sides. The open front would then be covered by a fringed apron. This skirt shows signs of much wear. Most of the materials it is made from are from local sources with the exception of two copper discs, shaped and cut like the abalone. All the ornaments in addition to being aesthetically pleasing would make a sound as the woman moved in the dance. A small blue bead is fastened in the fringe.

Culture
Hupa and Yurok
Material
hide, abalone shell, clam shell, copper metal, bear grass, maidenhair fern, iris fibre and glass bead
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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HeaddressX1053

Immature golden eagle feather headdress with a beaded headband. Base of feathers wrapped in red felt and made over a felt hat base. Streamers of weasel fur and cloth dangle from headband sides. These types of war bonnets were historically worn for special occasions and may occasionally be worn on the battle field (although men often wore one or two special feathers instead). A man earned the right to make one through his brave deeds. Initially he would be awarded a single feather for each deed; a coup, killing, or horse stealing success. Once he accumulated ten feathers he was generally given permission to obtain the eagle feathers for a full bonnet. Ideally they would have 28 eagle feathers and each may have additional notching to designate an event. The tips of the feathers could be tied with the horsehair if a man had counted many coups. Thus the bonnets became oral histories and each piece signified events in the warrior's life. Feathers were very valuable, i.e., 12 feathers equaled 1 horse. These were worn by warriors, not necessarily "chiefs". Only a few very high ranked warriors would have the bonnets with the long trailers down the back. Today bonnets are still made as recognition for achievements in life, dedication to their community as well as war participation. Golden eagles are a protected bird and Non-natives may not use them, buy them or transport them without special permits.

Culture
Osage and Ponca
Material
wool, felt, cloth, golden eagle feather, horse hair, glass bead, hide, weasel fur, silk and sinew
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Pair of Woman's Moccasins43.156.11

After review by several different consultants these mocassins are probably Commanche, although there is a possibility they are Kiowa. Yellow painted mocassins with a beaded arrow design in white, red ,and green on the vamp.

Culture
Kiowa and Commanche
Material
deer skin, glass bead and pigment
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Chief's Dress Shirt50.67.7a

This dress shirt matches leggings 50.67.7b-c. A lack of ornamentation suggests it may be unfinished (compare this sparse ornamentation to 50.67.4). The shirt has no pierce work, loom-woven quillwork, or ornamentation on the cuffs. At the neck flap, however, there is an outline of blue beads and at intervals below, an additional two and three bead linear arrangement. There are simply decorated rosettes of concentric rings on either side with centers of plain white skin. Going outward from these centers are rings of quills: light blue; white; red; and a combination of blue and yellow. Following the quills is a ring of white skin, and an outer circle of blue beads. When cleaned in 1992, a fringe damaged by old insect damage became detached at the center of the proper left shoulder. The edges of the torn section were backed and reattached.

Culture
Red River Metis, Yanktonai, Nakota and Sioux
Material
buckskin, glass bead, dyed hair, porcupine quill and thread
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Chief's War Shirt50.67.11

This shirt is constructed with very little tailoring. It is left open at the sides and a triangular bib is sewn on at the neck. This bib is decorated with blue pony beads, patterned with rows of triangles. Strips made of porcupine quillwork and maidenhair fern stems have been placed on the arms, shoulders and as epaulets. Long buckskin fringes have been added at the sides of the shirt, the bottom, and the sleeves. The shirt is dyed a yellowish-orange color. On the proper right side, many narrow, brown, horizontal bands that are bisected at one end have been painted. These have been said to stand for horse whips. On the proper left, four hourglass shapes, almost completely filled in with black, have been painted. They have been said to stand for cloth or blankets. The triangular neck flap is beaded somewhat differently from front to back. The front shows two rows of triangles whereas the back includes a third row that contains two triangles. The blue beads visually square off the pointed end of the skin and are similar to the design on Jarvis shirt 50.67.1a.

Culture
Sioux, Yanktonai and Nakota
Material
buckskin, dye, pigment, glass bead, porcupine quill, maidenhair fern stem and sinew
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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