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Bandolier43.201.44

This is controversial as to exact use. It might have been a necklace for a small pony or a man's bandolier. Made from hide it has dew claws sewn all around it that rattle when moved and a small medicine cloth bag attached.

Culture
Plains
Material
hide, cotton seed and dew claw
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Peyote Rattle11.694.9059

Culin purchased this rattle from Saucy Calf who explained the symbolism to Francis La Flesche. It would have been used in what is now the Native American Church. The gourd is painted with a zigzag line of red paint that represents the crown of thorns. The handle is worked with beads that represent lightning, divided into two parts by a band in the middle. The lower part of this band represents earth and the upper the sky, illustrating man ascending into heaven. The metal attached to the handle reads, “Behold the heart of Jesus is with me."

Culture
Osage
Material
gourd, glass bead, metal, feather, brass metal, sinew, nut ?, seed ? and cork
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Pipe Bag32.2099.32549

Bequest of W.S. Morton Mead

Culture
Blackfoot and Sioux
Material
buckskin, seed bead, porcupine quill and metal
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Blue Beaded Belt50.67.29

Plain deerskin, double thickness woman’s belt with blue pony beads wrapped around both edges. Small black seed beads are used near the fringes. At one time the end fringes were wrapped with orange quills, now mostly dissappeared.

Culture
Sioux and Cherokee
Material
pony bead, buckskin ?, deer skin ?, quill and seed bead
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Pair of Leggings50.67.9a-b

These leggings are constructed with a long "tab" at each hip, near the top and above each outer seam. Below these tabs the outer seams on the rest of both leggings are decorated with one vertical strip of porcupine quillwork on each, outlined with beads in red, white-centered red, and black. The small seed bead and the cornalined'allepo (the white-centered) beads are not usually found on garments this early. Long fringes ornament the outer seams and the base of each strand is wrapped with red porcupine quills. The top and bottom edges of the leggings have short fringes. Shorter tabs are sewn on the bottom. This is generally referred to as bottom tabbed leggings, a style that permitted the tabs to stream along after the wearer when walking, a fashion that existed for only a brief time.

Culture
Red River Metis, Yanktonai, Nakota and Sioux
Material
buckskin, porcupine quill, seed bead and thread
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Pair of Leggings50.67.10a-b

Along the outside edge of each legging is a strip of quillwork, with red, a white and a purplish-brown stripe. The strip is edged on one side with blue pony beads and on the other with white seed beads. The back of each legging is decorated with horizontal brown painted stripes. Side tabs at the top are sewn on separately, as are the flaps for the heels.

Culture
Sioux and Sisseton
Material
buckskin, porcupine quill, pony bead, seed bead and pigment
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Shirt50.67.8

This white buckskin shirt, with the faint remnants of a pinkish stain in the general shoulder area, has a squared cloth bib and cuffs made of red Stroud cloth. This bib has been attached with knotted lengths of buckskin thong. Both bib and cuffs are decorated with white seed beads and additional pony beads are sewn onto the bib. A line of chain stitch embroidery in blue decorates the bib at the front while the back of the bib is plain. A rosette on the front center of the shirt is decorated with reddish-orange and white porcupine quills and brown maidenhair fern stems that are in a configuration that probably represent a thunderbird. Bird quills in white, green, and brown are wrapped around the rawhide strips that are suspended from each shoulder. Additional fringe is inserted in each sleeve seam, which is wrapped at the base with red bird quills and white porcupine quills. Four long, pierced strips, two suspended under each sleeve, are also fringed. Horizontal reddish stripes are painted on the back of the shirt. A rectangular shaped repair, which appears to be of native origin, located on the front of the proper right shoulder, has been reattached to the long pierced tab by a knotted string of hide that matches the existing fringe. See Jarvis research file in Arts of Americas office.

Culture
Sioux and Sisseton
Material
buckskin, stroud cloth, pony bead, seed bead, yarn, porcupine quill, maidenhair fern stem, bird quill and pigment
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Garter50.67.37d

This garter is loom woven probably without the use of a heddle. It has both the warp and weft made of thread with small seed beads. The beads are patterned with long lines of diamonds in black, yellow, and lavender. See other garters 50.67.37 a,b,c.shown in additional photogrpahs.

Culture
Chippewa, Hochunk and Plains
Material
thread, yarn and glass seed bead
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Chief's War Shirt50.67.4

This elaborate shirt is decorated with beads and quillwork executed in several techniques. The bib has a heart and two flower sprays in red, green, and blue porcupine quills. The top edge is decorated with blue pony beads in a two-bead edging technique: red garnet beads were applied along the sides with the same technique. An inner broken line border of small red and black seed beads are also sewn on the bib. Two"rays" or "spokes". The inner ring, now grey, is surrounded by a ring of light blue which is then encircled by a red ring. The radiant rays are filled with areas quilled in pale yellow, light blue, and orange. Each entire rosette is encircled at the seam by large blue pony beads. The shoulder seam "coverings" were finely woven on a loom, but are now very deteriorated. A geometric pattern of red and blue "Xs", interspersed with red and blue diamonds are edged with small squares in red, black, and blue. The shoulder strips are checkered, quilled with three lines of colored squares in orange, blue, purple, black, yellow and white and finished along the sides with a zigzag pattern. The seam ornaments and shoulder strips are both edged with a single line of the blue pony beads. Tabs along each side and along the sleeves have pierced decoration. The "cuffs" are ornamented with two lines of blue pony beads. First, a single line and then a double line closer to the opening.The side seams and sleeves have long fringes, but very tiny fringes at the wrist, with every other one wrapped with orange quills. The comparitively simple decoration and unwrapped fringe are possibly due to the fact the shirt produced exclusively for sale and so rated less decoration. See Jarvis report in Arts of Americas' files.

Culture
Red River Metis, Yanktonai, Nakota and Sioux
Material
buckskin, porcupine quill, garnet bead, pony bead, seed bead and thread
Holding Institution
Brooklyn Museum
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Mbu Walg Kupun II2805/1

Large contemporary woven string bag (bilum) decorated with dyed stripes, different types of shells, chicken feathers, wooden beads, branches with seeds, small fan-shapes made of cut-up plastic packages, possum jaws, boar tusks and pieces of tapa cloth.

Culture
New Guinea: Kapia Ulgu
Material
plant fibre, paper mulberry bark, wood, seed, cowrie shell, chicken feather, plastic, jute fibre, possum jaw bone, natural dye, boar tusk, clam shell and oyster shell
Made in
Goroka, Eastern Highlands, Papua New Guinea
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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