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Jacket1408/1

Cream jacket with applique. The jacket has a collar, long sleeves and centre opening. There are small appliqué pictures on the lower front and sleeves. Pictures include a hut, horseshoe, donkey, flowers, sitting figure and woman with child. The edges have overlapping red and green stitching. The back has a large appliqué man and woman. The woman has black braids and ‘Mexico’ in sequins on her skirt. The man is wearing a sombrero. The inside is unlined.

Culture
Mexican
Material
wool fibre ?, dye and synthetic fibre
Made in
Mexico
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Ceremonial Panel1559/2

Rectangular embroidered and appliquéd textile panel, decorated with mirrors and edged with closely-spaced cowrie shells on three sides; the top edge is has a fibre loop attachment at the left corner. The design in the centre of the panel consists of two square motifs, embellished with rows of mirrors on a red and dark yellow background. A border design of embroidered and appliquéd bands and mirrors surrounds the central motifs. There are three 'tassels' made of clusters of bell-shaped pompoms of fine cotton thread and suspended from twisted fibre cords, evenly spaced on the 'bottom' edge; the tassels are trimmed with cowrie shells and metal beads.

Culture
Banjara
Material
cotton fibre, glass, cowrie shell, lead metal ?, silk fibre ?, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Ceremonial Panel1559/1

Rectangular, embroidered, and appliquéd textile panel, decorated with square mirrors. Panel edged with closely-spaced cowrie shells on three sides; the top edge has three black fibre ties, evenly space along the edge. Bottom edge has three ‘tassels’ made of clusters of cowrie shells and metal beads (cylindrical and bell-shaped). Six large square mirrors and several small square mirrors, worked on a bright pink and orange background, and in the centre of the panel, are surrounded by a border of small square mirrors. The panel is lined with red and tan resist-dyed textile.

Culture
Banjara
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre ?, cowrie shell, lead metal ?, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Dowry Bag1330/7

Small, flat, square, embroidered, envelope-style bag, detailed with mirrors and pompoms, made by folding and stitching together three corners of a flat, square panel to form a pocket, with the fourth corner left open to serve as a flap or cover. The square-shaped embroidered motifs, formed from bars of satin stitch, are grouped together into larger squares, arranged in an X shape, and are outlined in black. Mirror-work is incorporated into the designs and along the edges of the square. The embroidery is so dense that it completely covers the background textile. The seams are embellished with decorative stitching. There are small pompoms scattered throughout the design. Two thin fibre strings are attached to the corner of the flap. The embroidery is underlined with multicoloured cotton gauze.

Culture
Indian: Northern Indian and Indian: Central Indian
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ? or Rajasthan, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Blouse Panel1330/6

Rectangular, embroidered panel (woman's blouse-front -- unfinished) made of red cotton muslin, heavily embellished with designs worked in metallic and multicoloured threads, and combining two different styles of embroidery. In the centre of one end of the panel (the top of the blouse design) is a long, narrow, vertical, dagger-shaped section embellished with closely-spaced mirrors and large, circular whorls made of coiled silver, metal-wrapped thread, laid and couched with black thread. Parts of the designs are worked in chain stitch and elongated square chain stitch. Rows of metallic whorl motifs also embellish two rectangular shoulder panels and two square panels at chest level. Black thread is used for couching the silver thread in some of the whorls, while in others, yellow thread is used, giving the illusion that the silver metallic thread is gold. Portions of the design are unfinished or incomplete. At the other end of the panel (below the waist level of the blouse-front), the designs form an apron effect, decorated with scattered, multicoloured X-shaped motifs worked in satin stitch. There is a border of temple-shaped motifs, flowers and mirrors at the 3 edges of this “apron.” There are raw edges on all 4 sides of the panel, and there is no underlining. Four glass beads (3 opalescent, 1 green) are incorporate into the design, but do not contribute to the design scheme itself.

Culture
North India ?
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Rajasthan, India ? or Gujarat, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Bag1330/5

Small, flat, rectangular, multi-coloured pouch made by folding a long, narrow, embroidered panel in half crosswise and stitching up the long sides, leaving one narrow end open. The embroidery is so densely worked that almost none of the background textile is visible. The two sides of the pouch are almost identical in design and colour. Each side has a rectangular centre design panel embroidered with diamond shaped motifs outlined in black, some embellished with mirrors; the centre panel is outlined in dark yellow stitching, a row of mirrors interspersed with embroidered bars, and an edging of black “braid” made from dense bundles of black thread that are laid and couched at wide intervals. There is a pompom made of cotton thread at each corner. The pouch is lined with red printed cotton gauze.

Culture
Indian: Northern Indian and Indian: Central Indian
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ? or Rajasthan, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Cover1330/4

Small, square coverlet made from two layers of off-white cotton muslin, embroidered over the entire surface with closely-spaced, small running stitches in soft shades of pink, green, gray and orange cotton thread. A square section in the centre contains a scene with two human figures, a crane, a small bird, clouds, a fish and a butterfly. A wide border on all sides contains scattered figures of people, elephants, plants, trees, flowers, butterflies and fish. All motifs are outlined in black.

Culture
Bengali ?
Material
cotton fibre and dye
Made in
Bangladesh ? or India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Bag1330/3

Small, flat, rectangular, multi-coloured pouch made by folding a long, narrow, embroidered panel in half crosswise and stitching up the long sides, leaving one narrow end open. The embroidery is so densely worked that almost none of the background textile is visible. The two sides of the pouch are similar in design and colour, but one side is more heavily embellished than the other. Each side has a rectangular centre design panel embroidered with diamond shaped geometric forms and mirror work; the central panel is surrounded by yellow, green and white motifs worked in detached interlacing stitch. The designs are bordered with rows of yellow square chain stitch and a black “braid” made from dense bundles of black thread that are laid and couched. A tassel made from thread is sewn at each corner. One red glass bead is sewn on one side, at the lower right of the design field. The pouch is lined with off-white cotton muslin.

Culture
Rabari ?
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ? or Rajasthan, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Bag1330/2

Small, flat, rectangular, multi-coloured pouch made by folding a long, narrow embroidered panel in half crosswise and stitching up the long sides, leaving one narrow end open. The embroidery is so densely worked that almost none of the background textile is visible. The two sides of the pouch are almost identical in design and colour. Each side of the pouch has a rectangular centre design panel embroidered with diamond shaped motifs and mirrors, worked with multi-coloured thread, outlined with black, on red cotton muslin; the central panel is bordered with a row of mirrors that are outlined with metallic thread and set between rows of black “braid” made from dense bundles of black thread that are laid and couched. Closely-spaced, faded red pompoms are sewn into the side seams. At the open end of the pouch is a casing made from grey-green cotton fabric. The pouch is lined with dark green cotton fabric.

Culture
Indian: Northern Indian and Indian: Central Indian
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ? or Rajasthan, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Textile1330/14

A square of red cotton muslin embroidered with bold, multicoloured, circular motifs and bordered on three sides by geometric figures. The main design field is divided into four quadrants, each containing a large mandala of concentric circles worked in stem stitch and interlacing stitch, with a mirror in the centre of each circle. In the middle of the design field is a slightly larger mandala with a more elaborate centre containing a number of small mirrors. There are small, circular mirrors and square embroidered motifs scattered in a regular pattern over the red background. The edges are bound with black cotton gauze on all four sides. The embroidery is not underlined.

Culture
Rabari ?
Material
cotton fibre, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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