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Sampler1222/1

A fine rectangular linen sampler showing variations of the technique of weaving with needle and thread. A centre medallion, worked in cross stitch embroidery, contains the date of 1767 and several sets of initials from the top right clockwise: CL, S, CS, CS, LS with B, and EK in the middle. The medallion is framed with bands of plain weaving stitch in red-brown thread. Ten rectangular sample blocks of different weaving patterns surround the medallion. The patterns include plain weave, twill weave, diamond pattern, check pattern, herringbone pattern, chevron pattern, and stripe pattern worked in two colours. One sample is multi-coloured. The samples are reversible. Decorative stitchery in all four corners. The left edge is a selvage while the other edges are finished with a rolled hem.

Culture
Dutch
Material
dye, linen fibre and cotton fibre ?
Made in
The Hague, Netherlands ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Shawl364/1

A woman's large square shawl of finely woven light brown wool, edged with wide (15.5 cm) bands of bias-cut, embroidered, pale beige silk textile and ribbon with multi-coloured floral and geometric designs of predominently red and green. The design is face-up on two adjacent sides and face-down on the other two adjacent sides, so that when the shawl is folded to form a triangle, the designs appear on the same side. Light brown silk fringe on all sides.

Culture
English ?
Material
wool fibre, silk fibre and dye
Made in
United Kingdom and England ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Shawl1774/5

Woman’s rectangular, embroidered shawl (headcloth). Made of brown, coarsely-woven cotton textile, embroidered over-all with brightly coloured, regularly spaced, squares that are arranged in 6 vertical rows of 12 each. The squares have stylized floral and leaf shapes in them, differing slightly in their predominance of 4 colours: orange, bright pink, light green and white; worked with a surface or “false” satin stitch. Border design of triangles at the ends, and borders of leaf motifs on the sides, which are finished with blanket stitch. The piece is constructed from three sections which were sewn together before the embroidery was worked.

Culture
Punjabi
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre and dye
Made in
Punjab, India
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Shawl1774/4

Woman’s rectangular, embroidered shawl (headcloth). Made of red-orange, coarsely-woven cotton textile, embroidered over-all with brightly coloured, regularly spaced rows of stylized floral shapes that are separated by narrow bands of orange cross-stitch. The floral shapes are identical in shape and alternate in four colours in the row, dark yellow, hot pink, light green and white. They are worked with surface or “false” satin stitch. The alternating colours in the rows match up diagonally across the width of the shawl. Leaf-shaped border designs on the ends and along the sides. The sides are finished with blanket stitch in light green silk, while the ends are unfinished. The piece is constructed of three textile panels which were sewn together before the embroidery was worked.

Culture
Punjabi
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre and dye
Made in
Punjab, India
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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DollN2.900 a-b

Seated female figure representing the Japanese empress (part a) dressed in imperial costume. Elaborate headdress of gold-coloured metal and beads. Predominantly red-orange and white. Stand (part b) is wood in the shape of a book covered with green cloth and having orange and white binding.

Culture
Japanese
Material
wood, metal, glass and silk fibre
Made in
Japan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Headdress1498/2

A woman’s headdress consisting of a crown and a broad panel that hangs down along the back. It is shaped from a piece of coarsely woven dark brown and blue textile and is heavily decorated with cowrie shells, red and white glass beads, and embroidery. The crown portion is embellished with closely-spaced rows of cowrie shells and a central strip of geometric shapes formed from red and white glass beads. There is a large brown and orange pom pom at the centre back. The “tail” is decorated with scattered small buttons of various kinds and small silver diamond-shaped ornaments. A costume jewelry brooch (gold with red and blue stones) is pinned in the centre. There is a strip of embroidered geometric shapes at the end of the “tail", and the bottom edge is finished with a braided fringe formed from the warp threads of the textile.

Culture
Kalash
Material
wool fibre, goat hair fibre ?, cotton fibre, cowrie shell, glass, plastic and dye
Made in
Chitral, Northwest Frontier, Pakistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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BlouseCh293

Long white blouse with embroidery and attached petticoat. The blouse has a wide neckline gathered onto twisted red and white cord, tied at center front. There are two vertical bands of red embroidery down the upper front and back. The long raglan sleeves have underarm gussets and multicoloured embroidery and beading from shoulder to cuff. The embroidery has stripes, floral and geometric motifs in cross-stitch, tent stitch, chain stitch and satin stitch with glass beads and gold metallic thread incorporated into the designs. A plain petticoat is attached below waist; the hem trimmed with lace made by pulling and reworking threads. The seams have decorative hand stitching.

Culture
Romanian
Material
cotton fibre ?, dye, glass and metal ?
Made in
Romania
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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BlouseCh291

Long cream blouse with embroidery. The blouse has a keyhole neckline with embroidered trim, hand finishing and ties of twisted fibre. The long sleeves have underarm gussets and lace trim (made by pulling and reworking threads). The embroidery is arranged in vertical bands on the upper front and back and sleeve ends. The bands have black stylized vines and red flowers in tent stitch and cross stitch, worked with heavy thread. The plain petticoat is attached below waist; machine-stitched hem.

Culture
Romanian
Material
cotton fibre ?, dye and glass
Made in
Romania
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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ShoesCh283 a-b

Pair of woman's off-white felt slippers have black wool braid binding at the upper edge. There is also a red, green and black embroidered wool design on vamp and upper edge. There is a red, white, black and green concentric circle wool pom-pom on the vamp. A flat grey leather sole is glued on to the bottom.

Culture
Polish
Material
wool fibre, dye, leather skin and adhesive
Made in
Zakopane, Poland
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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BlouseCh279

White cotton blouse with open work. The blouse has a wide collar, long cuffed sleeves and front centre opening with white plastic buttons. The collar and cuffs have scalloped edges and open work in floral and leaf motifs. The sleeves have open work from the shoulders to cuffs. The inside is unlined.

Culture
Polish
Material
cotton fibre
Made in
Zakopane, Poland
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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