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Backless Blouse1098/5

Woman’s backless blouse, made from a large, heavily embroidered panel which forms the entire front of the blouse. Blouse has green background with red, white, yellow, black, orange and blue embroidered features, and mirrors. The top portion of the blouse is embroidered with geometric designs, consisting of red and white flowers and yellow chains grouped into square elements which are edged with black cotton braid. There is a vertical neck opening at the centre front edged in orange. The lower portion of the blouse forms an apron effect and is embellished with scattered multicoloured designs. Borders at the sides and bottom incorporate diamond and lozenge shapes in dark red. On the back, separate, small shoulder yokes made from panels of dark red cotton broadcloth are sewn at the shoulders and at the underarms, forming close-fitting, abbreviated sleeves. One glass bead is sewn into the design on the right shoulder of the garment. The embroidery is underlined with red silk textile.

Culture
South Asian
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal and dye
Made in
Sindh, Pakistan ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Door Hanging1330/13

Lavishly embroidered over-doorway hanging with bold, multicoloured designs on a predominantly red background. The hanging consists of a long, narrow, horizontal, central panel to which are attached seven small, U-shaped “pennants” that are arranged side-by-side along the lower edge. The designs on the central panel are alternating flower and parrot motifs, worked in chain stitch; at the right-hand end of this panel, there is a narrow band of red cotton textile, embellished with interlacing stitch, that does not match the rest of the panel in design or colouration. The pennants are embroidered with floral motifs in chain stitch on red or black cotton textile; the designs on the pennants are very similar to one another, but differ in colouration. All edges are bound with three (sometimes four) strips of black, yellow, green and/or red cotton binding. Tassels made of bundles of cloth scraps are sewn at intervals along the top and side edges and at the bottom of each pennant. The various components of the hanging are underlined with scraps of printed cotton gauze. Loops of braided fibre are sewn on the top corners.

Culture
Rabari ? or Kachhi ?
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre ?, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Wall Hanging1330/12

Large, square, embroidered wall hanging, featuring multicoloured representations of the elephant-headed god Ganesh, female human figures, birds, rats and flowers, worked in chain stitch with multicoloured silk or rayon thread on cotton muslin. A large, square field of dark brown muslin in the centre of the piece is divided roughly into four quadrants, each containing an identical scene of Ganesh seated under an umbrella, within a shrine, and attended by two women bearing flowers, several birds and a rat. In the centre of this field is a decorative strip of various designs, representing women, male figures mounted on horseback, peacocks and mandalas or sun symbols. There is a 3-tiered border (18.5 cm) of red muslin, embroidered with flowers, triangles and wavy lines, surrounding the main design field on all four sides. The hanging is underlined with dark brown cotton muslin. Loops made from brown cotton textile are sewn on at all four corners. Some of the block-printed embroidery guidelines are still visible.

Culture
North India ?
Material
cotton fibre, rayon fibre ?, silk fibre ? and dye
Made in
Rajasthan, India ? or Gujarat, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Dowry Bag1330/11

Large, flat, rectangular bag or dowry sack, constructed from two pieces of embroidered textile which are stitched together on three edges with blanket stitch; the fourth edge is roughly finished and left completely open. The bag is made of off-white cotton muslin and is lavishly decorated with bold, multicoloured embroideries on both sides. The two sides are very similar to each other but are not identical. The central motif on each side is a scene representing a tree of life; on one side this motif is surmounted by images of two women bearing water pots, while on the other side the tree of life is surrounded by images of peacocks. On both sides are representations of temples, door hangings and wall hangings. The central images are surrounded by square and round geometric designs embellished with mirrors. Borders on three sides of the central motif are embroidered with round geometric patterns and large mirrors on strips of black and red cotton muslin. The embroideries are underlined with a heavier off-white cotton textile which is pieced together.

Culture
Rabari ? or Vaghadia ?
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
Gujarat, India ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Wedding Tunic1201/8

A multicoloured woman’s tunic that is embellished with panels and bands of embroidery on both the front and the back, incorporating several styles of embroidery. The colours are muted. On the front, there is a large embroidered panel from shoulder to hip, and the upper edge of this panel extends over the shoulders to form a narrow yoke on the back. The embroidery on this panel is so elaborately detailed and so densely worked that none of the background textile is visible, and this part of the tunic is very stiff. Design elements in this embroidered panel include small circular and double-diamond motifs arranged in rectangular strips, embellished with very small mirrors. Below the densely embroidered panel on the front are three solid coloured horizontal bands of silk and cotton textile (light yellow-orange; light green; light orange), embroidered with triangular, diamond and floral motifs and bordered with braid and rickrack. The back of the tunic has a centre-back neckline slit (29 cm) with twisted fibre ties. Below the back shoulder yoke, a large panel of yellowish white cotton textile is divided into large rectangular compartments that are bordered with red triangular motifs. A narrow horizontal band of machine printed textile separates the shoulder yoke from this panel. Narrow vertical strips of plain cotton textile (light yellow; green; red), edged with braid, form side panels that connect the front to the back. There is a small pocket in the right-hand side seam. Elbow-length, close fitting sleeves are made of solid coloured bands of cotton textile (light yellow; light green; light red), trimmed with silk embroidery, braid and white rickrack. All panels and bands are underlined with cotton textile. A label made of off-white cotton textile, printed with a rubber stamp and handwritten with ball-point ink, is attached at the neck edge on the front with a loose running stitch.

Culture
Lohana, Pallari and Burati
Material
cotton fibre
Made in
Thando Bula Khan, Sindh, Pakistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Vest1200/9

Small black wool vest with silver embroidery. The vest has a centre front opening with lower edges that curve upwards. There are dense swirling patterns made of silver metallic braid and thread that has been couched onto the surface of the ground fabric. Blue and green glass beads are incorporated into some of the patterns. All edges are bordered with flat silver braid. The centre opening and bottom edge have small spherical ornaments, made of wood or fibre and been wrapped with silver thread. The inner lining is black silky fabric.

Culture
South Asian
Material
wool fibre, cotton fibre, silk fibre ?, silver metal, glass, wood ? and dye
Made in
Sindh, Pakistan ?
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Cover1159/1

Small, square cover made of lightweight, off-white cotton muslin, embroidered in muted colours with multicoloured figures and plant motifs; reversible. There is a round medallion in the centre, with a figure of the god Krishna seated, encircled by dancing or standing figures, linked hand-to-hand. The corners of the square are decorated with stylized trees, and there is a border of floral and bird motifs on all four sides. All figures, flowers, etc. are outlined in black.

Culture
North India
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre and dye
Made in
Himachal Pradesh, India
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Bull's Hood1330/10

Highly decorated hood for a bull, formed by joining two embroidered square panels along two of their adjacent edges and rounding off the point that is thus formed. The remaining two edges of the squares are left open, forming points at the bottom of the cover. Two ovoid openings, finished with binding, are located along the top edge. The two sides of the cover are heavily embroidered with square, circular and floral motifs, in red, orange, purple, green, and white, which are embellished with many round and tear-shaped mirrors on blue background. The embroidery is underlined with red-orange heavy cotton textile.

Culture
Indian: Northern Indian and Indian: Central Indian
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal ? and dye
Made in
India
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Backless Blouse1098/4

Woman’s or child’s turquoise cotton backless blouse, embellished with designs worked in gold and silver metal wrapped thread. The blouse is made from a large, heavily embroidered panel that forms the entire front of the blouse. There is a vertical neck opening at the centre front, bound with black embroidery; this opening is embellished with three rows of closely spaced circular metallic gold motifs. At each shoulder is a gold inverted heart-shaped figure. Below the armholes, the designs form an apron effect; the design elements, which are scattered over the entire surface, include hearts, squares, geometric forms, tree and flower motifs. Dark red pompoms, circular mirrors and silver and red sequins are placed within the motifs. The sleeve edges are trimmed with beads, sequins and beaded tassels. The bottom and sides are bordered with diamond-shaped motifs, sequins and gold metallic crocheted edging. On the back, separate, small shoulder yokes made from panels of multicoloured, machine-printed cotton broadcloth are sewn at the shoulders and at the underarms, forming close-fitting, abbreviated sleeves. The blouse fastens at the centre back neckline with green twisted fibre ties. There is also a green fibre tie located halfway down the left edge of the blouse and a fibre loop located at a corresponding place on the right-hand side. The embroidery is underlined with red printed cotton gauze.

Culture
South Asian
Material
cotton fibre, glass, metal, shell and dye
Made in
Sindh, Pakistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
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Dowry Bag1098/2

Small, square, flat, envelope-style dowry bag or purse made by bringing three corners of a square together, using the fourth corner as a triangular flap. Heavily embroidered with square and X-shaped, brightly coloured geometric designs and round mirrors. Loosely twisted fibre cords (red, yellow and green; 52.5 cm in length) with a yellow pompom, are used to fasten the flap shut. The embroidery is underlined with red printed cotton textile.

Culture
South Asian
Material
cotton fibre, silk fibre, glass, silver alloy metal and dye
Made in
Sindh, Pakistan
Holding Institution
MOA: University of British Columbia
View Item Record