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Helmut-like hat, or cap, with a long flap in the back that covers the ears and back of the neck. It is made of a satin-weave fabric that is machine printed with multi-coloured designs of flowers, leaves and stems, and it is heavily ornamented with glass and plastic beads, metal zipper teeth, plastic buttons, cotton braid and silver-coloured ball chains. On the forehead are panels of curvilinear designs and borders of beading and metal applique. The crown consists of a circular panel of finely-worked silk embroidery on black cotton textile, topped with a beaded topknot and silver ornament. Completely lined with blue-gray cotton.
Multi-coloured woman’s tunic that is lavishly embellished with panels and bands of embroidery on both the front and the back, incorporating several styles of stitching. The garment is very stiff and heavy. On the front, there is a large embroidered panel from shoulder to hip, and the upper edge of this panel extends over the shoulders to form a narrow yoke on the back. The embroidery on this panel is so elaborately detailed and so densely worked that none of the background textile is visible. Design elements in this embroidered panel include circular and diamond shaped motifs and many small mirrors. Below the densely embroidered panel on the front are three horizontal bands decorated with triangular motifs, rickrack, sequins and metallic braid embroidery. The back of the tunic has a centre-back neckline slit (37 cm). Pouches made of yellow and red textile which is embellished with an X made of black braid are sewn into the top of the neck edge on both sides of the neckline slit. The pouches contain small amounts of dried plant material. Below the back shoulder yoke are horizontal bands of navy blue and silver brocade. A panel of orange textile, embroidered with oval and square shapes, extends to the hem of the garment. The sides of the garment are formed from vertical strips of bright pink, green and gold satin textile. The bottoms of the elbow-length sleeves are finished with several rows of diamond-shaped motifs.
Gold-coloured satin jacket, or blouse. The centre opening has front panels that overlap to the right when tied closed with two long wide ribbon ties. The left outer facing is rounded at the lower edge, while the right is straight and projects beyond the front edge. The neck is finished with a narrow facing or collar of white cloth-covered paper. The long sleeves are set in with a straight seam and a convex curve on the lower edge, narrowing to the wrist. Thin white inner ties are sewn to the right inner facing and the left underarm seam. The inner lining is loosely woven off-white rayon.
Brown blouse, or shirt, with pattern. V-neck, wide sleeves, side slits and centre opening with two silver buttons. The buttons are oval and three-dimensional with a Chinese character on each side. The long sleeves are set in with a straight seam and a convex curve on the lower edge, narrowing to the wrist. The pattern has clouds, bats and gourds in silver and orange-brown on brown ground. The inner lining is light blue with a small square pattern.
Woman’s jacket of white cotton fabric. The jacket is shorter than waist-length and opens at the front, with the left side lapping over the right when closed. Panels are added to the front edge at each side to extend the overlap. The deep V neckline is edged on the outside and inside with facings of cotton fabric, with a rounded corner at the bottom on the left, and a square corner on the right. Along the V neck is sewn a narrow collar or outer facing made of the same fabric as the lining. Two long thick ties are attached to the lower left facing and to the right of the facing. Thin white inner ties are sewn to the inner right inner facing and the left underarm seam. There is a centre back seam. The long sleeves are set in with a straight seam and a convex curve on the lower edge, narrowing to the wrist. The inner lining is white and shiny with a zigzag pattern. Jacket made to be worn over a skirt (2535/4).
Short white jacket with striped sleeves. The jacket is made of shiny white fabric with a woven pattern of small flowers and stems in white and silver. The centre opening has front panels that overlap to the right when tied closed with two long striped ribbon ties. The front edges are extended with panels from the mid-point of the outer facing made of the same rainbow-striped fabric. The garment has a deep V neckline edged with an appliqué rainbow-striped facing. The left outer facing is rounded at the lower edge, while the right is straight and projects beyond the front edge of the garment. The neck is finished with a narrow outer facing or collar of white paper covered with sheer fabric. The long sleeves are deeply set in with a straight seam and a convex curve on the lower edge, narrowing to the wrist. They are made of brocade woven in six different colours stripes parallel to the body of the garment and embellished with flower, bat and butterfly motifs and stylized Chinese characters woven in red. Thin white inner ties are sewn to the inner right inner facing and the left underarm seam. The inner lining is white nylon mesh, with an interfacing of coarser nylon mesh.
Light brown damask vest with gray peony pattern. The vest has a v-neck, side slits and a centre opening with five silver buttons. Each button is stamped with the design of two chrysanthemums. There is an inset pocket on each side finished with a rectangular band. There is a smaller third pocket on the upper left. The vest is lined with light brown rayon and is filled with a thick material.
Man’s jacket of natural colour hemp cloth, somewhat coarse and very light brown in colour. Jacket is waist-length and opens at the front, with the left side lapping over the right when closed. Panels are added to the front edge at each side to extend the overlap. The deep V neckline is edged on the outside with a facing 7 cm wide, with rounded corners at the bottom. A tab with a buttonhole is attached to the place where the facing joins the front edge, and this aligns with a tab on the right side to which is sewn a shank button of pearly plastic. The lower edge of the garment curves downward to the centre front. There is a centre back seam, and the sleeves are inset with a straight seam, and joined with another seam between elbow and wrist. The lower edges of the sleeves have convex curves, narrowing towards the wrist. There is a square reinforcement sewn to the inside of each underarm. All the hems are very narrow.
Long white ramie coat with long sleeves and an overlapping centre opening with ties. The coat has a V-neck with inner and outer facings of the same material and rounded corners at the lower edges. There is a narrower outer facing or collar of white silk-like fabric squared at the lower ends and hand-sewn in place. Two wide ribbon ties are attached at the mid-points of the wider facings and there are shorter, narrower ribbon ties on the inside. The sides of all ribbons were left unsewn. The sleeves are inset with straight seams with additional seams between elbow and wrist and slight convex curves at the lower edges. There are square reinforcements in the underarms. The coat has a centre back seam, a pair of flared gussets under each arm and a slightly flared panel descending from the mid-point of each outer facing so that the coat overlaps at the front when closed. The left facing has a wide hem as does the bottom of the garment. The sleeves have narrower hems. All seams are very narrow.
Man’s summer shirt of natural hemp cloth. The shirt is waist-length and opens at the front, with the left side lapping over the right when closed. Panels are added to the front edge on each side to extend the overlap. The deep V-neckline is edged on the outside with a facing 7 cm wide, with rounded corners at the bottom. A tab with a buttonhole is attached to the place where the facing joins the front edge and this aligns to a tab on the right side with a knotted button. The lower edge of the garment curves downward to the centre front. There is a centre back seam. The sleeves are inset with a straight seam and join with another seam between elbow and wrist. The lower edges of the sleeves have convex curves, narrowing towards the wrist. There is a square reinforcement sewn to the inside of each underarm. All the hems are very narrow.