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The wool cloth is black, blue, yellow, and white. The cotton cloth is blue and green. The bead is abalone, blue, yellow, glass, and mother-of-pearl.
'Spirit of the Ancestors' - This apron is the only contemporary Chilkat style weaving in the Burke's collection, and was woven by the only male Native weaver known to use this technique. Many believe that Tsimshian women originated this complex technique of weaving in the late 18th or early 19th centuries. This apron depicts a Raven with its wings outstretched.
A very rare variant of Tlingit spruce root weaving is the bead-covered basket. Beadwork is not a major art form among Northwest Coast people, although it does occur all over the coast. The best known Tlingit beadwork is that on dancing shirts, collars, and bags, and is done in the overlay or couched technique in foliate scroll designs. Geometric designs are not unknown, however. Typical Tlingit basketry designs were used in the beadwork, arranged in the familiar three-banded composition. (Holm, Spirit and Ancestor, 1987)
Tlingit weavers also used their skills to produce articles of ceremonial dress other than dancing blankets. Among these were aprons, leggings, and a very few rare pouches, cartridge boxes, and shamans' hats. The largest and most spectacular of these ceremonial articles, however, was the tunic, either sleeved or sleeveless. Probably derived from a painted dance tunic, or perhaps an armor shirt, it was modified and conventionalized by the weaving process. (Holm, Spirit and Ancestor, 1987)
No more royal robe ever draped a king than the dancing blanket of the northern Northwest Coast, universally named the Chilkat blanket, after the Tlingit tribe whose weavers specialized in its making in the nineteenth century. Its characteristic five-sided form, richly fringed, with striking black and yellow bands bordering a complex tapestry of eyes, fins, or feathers, is instantly recognizable. There are dozens of Chilkat blanket patterns. The most common are those called diving whale, most of which are divided into three distinct panels, the central one depicting the whale. (Holm, Spirit and Ancestor, 1987)