IDENTIFIED AS KUTCHIN TYPE BY JUDY THOMPSON, WESTERN SUBARCTIC CURATOR AT THE CANADIAN MUSEUM OF CIVILIZATION, 1999. FROM CARD: "QUILLED ORNAMENTAL BANDS AT SIDES; SINEW SEWN. WHITE COLOR. ILLUS. IN THE FAR NORTH CATALOG, NAT. GALL. OF ART, 1973, P. 149 [attributed as Kutchin in publication]. PART OF COSTUME, CAT. NOS. 328766-9." MATERIALS: WHITE CARIBOU HIDE, PORCUPINE QUILLS, SINEW.Clothing set E328766, E328767, and E328768 is illus. Fig. 8, p. 53 in Thompson, Judy, 1999, "Marketing Tradition: Late Nineteenth-Century Gwich'in Clothing Ensembles," American Indian Art Magazine, 24(4). Identified there: "Clothing ensemble comprised of a tunic, moccasin-trousers and hood, Gwich'in type. White caribou hide, porcupine quills, sinew and silver willow seeds. Collected by Bernard Ross, 1860. The breast band and front above the breast band are decorated with bands of loom-woven quillwork; the wrists of the tunic and the moccasin-trousers adn hood are decorated with folded quills ...."

FROM CARD: "1855 & 1856 ILLUS.: FIG. 2.22, PP. 46 + 47 IN NORTHERN ATHAPASKAN ART BY KATE DUNCAN, UNIV. OF WASHINGTON PRESS, 1989. IDENTIFIED THERE AS SUMMER TUNIC AND MOCCASIN TROUSERS, LOUCHEUX, CARIBOU HIDE, RED AND WHITE OPAQUE BUGLE BEADS SEWN WITH SINEW, RED OCHRE."

FROM CARD: "1855 & 1856 ILLUS.: FIG. 2.22, PP. 46 + 47 IN NORTHERN ATHAPASKAN ART BY KATE DUNCAN, UNIV. OF WASHINGTON PRESS, 1989. IDENTIFIED THERE AS SUMMER TUNIC AND MOCCASIN TROUSERS, LOUCHEUX, CARIBOU HIDE, RED AND WHITE OPAQUE BUGLE BEADS SEWN WITH SINEW, RED OCHRE."Tunic Illus. Fig. 64D p. 94 in Van Kampen, Ukjese. 2012. The History of Yukon First Nations Art, Phd dissertation, Leiden University. https://openaccess.leidenuniv.nl/handle/1887/18984 . Van Kampen identifies it as a woman's dress.

FROM CARD: "TRIBE YUKON RIVER INDS. HAN KOOTCHIN" ILLUS (tunic and moccasin trousers).: CROSSROADS OF CONTINENTS CATALOGUE; FIG. 67, P.65. LOAN: CROSSROADS SEP 22, 1988. LOAN RETURNED: JAN 21 1993."Source of the information below: Smithsonian Arctic Studies Center Alaska Native Collections: Sharing Knowledge website, by Aron Crowell, entry on this artifact (under # ET1857B) http://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=5, retrieved 8-13-2012: Moccasin pants or trousers. This pair of man's moccasin trousers are made of soft, tanned caribou skin. There were part of a suit of clothing that was purchased in the late 1850s or early 1860s by Hudson's Bay Company fur trader Bernard Ross. Like the trousers, the tunic and mittens (E1857-0 and E1857-2) are decorated with bands of trade beads and with lines of red mineral (ocher) paint along the edges, seams, and beaded areas. In the past, men and women of all Alaskan Athabascan groups wore similar moccasin trousers and tunics. Along the Yukon River and its tributaries these garments were made by the Gwich'in (1), Koyukon (2), Upper Tanana (3), and Deg Hit'an.(4) In southern Alaska, both the Dena'ina and Ahtna wore this type of clothing.(5) Moccasin trousers often had tanned caribou skin leggings and moose hide soles.(6) Hair was left on the caribou skins when making winter trousers, and turned to the inside. Upper Tanana people wore winter trousers made of mountain sheep skins and put rabbit fur inside to insulate their feet.(7) Moccasin trousers were originally decorated with porcupine quill embroidery and later with glass trade beads.(8) This type of garment went out of style among most Athabascans by the mid to late 19th century, replaced by pants and unattached moccasins.(9) However, some in the Upper Tanana region were still wearing moccasin trousers in 1930, and the Gwich'in were making them for children at that time.(10) 1. Mackenzie 1801:48; McKennan 1965:45; Murray 1910:84; Osgood 1936:39-40; Richardson 1851 Vol. 1:380 2. Dall 1870:82-83; Michael 1976:244-46 3. McKennan 1959:78-80 4. Osgood 1970:262; Michael 1976:244-46 5. Allen 1887:131, Osgood 1937:46 6. McKennan 1959:78, 1965:45; Osgood 1936:39 7. McKennan 1959:78 8. VanStone 1981:11-16 9. Simeone and VanStone 1986:7 10. Duncan and Carney 1997:24: McKennan 1959:45, 79

Object has an old museum tag that says: "For Trial Chilkat Group." The assumption is that this means the object was at one time intended for use on an early 20th century Smithsonian exhibit mannequin representing a Chilkat Tlingit person.

FROM CARD: "THESE PANTS ARE MADE OF DRESSED SKIN. THE OUTSIDE FLAP OF THE LEGGING HAS A PANEL OF RED MATERIAL WHICH CARRIES A BEADWORK DESIGN. THERE IS A STRAP OF BEADED PANELING LOOSE BUT GOING PASSED THE KNEE ON EACH LEGGING. THERE ARE ALSO TWO PANELS OF BEADWORK ON THE FRONT OF THE PANTS ABOUT AT THE HIPS. SEE CAT. NO. 357532 FOR SHIRT WHICH POSSIBLY BELONGS WITH THESE PANTS." See remarks for E357532 for additional information on cultural attribution, etc..

FROM CARD: "A=SHIRT. B=LEGGINGS."

Alan Zuboff, Linda Wynne, and Ruth Demmert made the following comments during the Tlingit Recovering Voices Community Research Visit, March 13-March 24, 2017. The group agrees that the trousers are made of caribou hide. It was likely obtained through trade because Tlingits didn't normally hunt caribou because the animals were not local. The individual stitching of the quills cannot be seen, which suggests the design work was woven on a loom and not directly onto the garment.

FROM CARD: "BEADED BUCKSKIN."This object is on loan to the Anchorage Museum at Rasmuson Center, from 2010 through 2027. E168297-0 Shirt and E168297-1 Moccasin trousers are both on loan.Source of the information below: Smithsonian Arctic Studies Center Alaska Native Collections: Sharing Knowledge website, by Aron Crowell, entry on this artifact http://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=262 , retrieved 11-29-2011: Moccasin pants Tlingit chiefs and nobles wore fringed and beaded moccasin-pants made from tanned caribou hide. The clothing was acquired through trade with the Tahltan, Tutchone, Ahtna, and other Athabascan peoples. Bands of colorful trade beads recreate old-style designs formerly made with dyed porcupine quills. See also the remarks for the shirt from this clothing set, E168297-0. The Sharing Knowledge website entry on the shirt notes that its beadwork style is probably Interior Tlingit or Tahltan.