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Specific Techniques

The hood is made with fine hand sewing and machine sewing.

Description

Open-top hood made of black silk damask with long ear flaps to which are attached long ribbons of the same fabric. The damask is patterned with peony flowers. The hood is constructed of two halves sewn together at the centre of the forehead and centre back, but with an opening at the top edged with black piping ending with a short slit at the back. The hood is cut straight across the forehead with a convex curved edge along each side edged with black piping on each side. The long ear flaps project forward from the points where the forehead joins the sides. The hood is edged entirely with two layers of skin with black fur, one facing inside and the other facing outside. A flat purple silk cord crosses the opening from front to back, ending at the back in an elaborate knot made of dark pink cord, partially detached and crumpled, below which are five dark pink tassels wrapped in gold thread. At the front there an elaborate double knot of gold and pink cord, below which are seven dark pink tassels wrapped in gold thread. The hood is lined with bright blue rayon fabric, most of which is covered with white fibrous paper which is attached with long running stitches.

History Of Use

In the later Chosun Dynasty, such hoods were used for both men and women. Those of purple or deep blue fabric were for women. Those with this shape were normally for men, but tassels of this type were worn by women. Those with detailing such as jade ornaments and coral beads were worn by high-class women of the official “Yangban” class. Those with less lavish details were worn by women of that class, but not of such high status. Ordinary people just wore ear covers held in place with a cord. These hoods were open at the top for ventilation, so the wearer would not catch cold because of the difference between her body heat and the outdoor temperature. Hoods of this type came from the northern part of Korea. Ones that were very finely sewn were made in shops. The lining was normally a colour opposite to that on the outside, to make the hood more colourful.
Such hoods are being revived now for winter wear on holidays.

Iconographic Meaning

Hoods made with such skill and fine cloth but without ornaments and only a flat cord over the head showed that the wearer was of high class, but not very wealthy. Simplicity was a sign that the wearer was an older person. The odd number of tassels represents good fortune.