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Narrative

This tassel ornament "No-ri-gae" was donated to the Museum of Anthropology by Dr. Choi, Hai-yaul during the time when she was documenting the museum's collection of Korean clothing.

Specific Techniques

The threads in each strand were plied with a reverse twist, leaving a tiny circle at the end of each strand. The silk was dyed with natural dyes.

Description

Ornament made of elaborately knotted blue-green silk cord, with three large tassels attached at the end opposite the loop formed by the cord at the upper end of the ornament. Below the loop is elaborate knot with six loops protruding from the sides, below which is a silver ornament strung on the cord, with a coral bead at each end. Below the silver ornament is another elaborate knot, below which are suspended the three tassels, each wrapped at the top with fine silk thread of the same colour as the tassel. The silver ornament is urn-shaped, with a loop at each side from which hang silver butterflies each with two red and two blue enamel dots. There is a raised Chinese character on each side of the urn, on each side of which are panels inlaid with yellow, blue, and brown enamel. Above the urn are floral shapes formed of silver inlaid with coral beads.

Iconographic Meaning

The jar shape made of silver represents a special jar called "Too-ho" into which women could throw arrows. This was done on the first day of the New Year to repel devils for the coming year. Its meaning is exorcistic. The flowers represent good fortune and many fruits. The butterflies represent happy marriage. The red colour of the coral and enamel repels devils.

History Of Use

There were many kinds of tassel ornaments "No-ri-gae" in the Chosun Dynasty, worn either hanging from the ribbon tie of the upper garment "jo-go-ri" or from the waist tie. Ornaments such as this one were and are worn at the waist on the left side, hanging from the skirt ribbon that was tied on the right. Women of the official "Yangban" class wore them throughout the Chosun Dynasty as everyday decorations. They also were worn as formal wear. For women to wear such ornaments as formal wear, when guests were invited or when women visited others, was a polite gesture, influenced by Confucianism. This showed their respect to others. The ornaments might have one, two, or three tassels, but the most elaborate could have as many as seven. The silver ornaments might be shaped like jars, butterflies, or needle holders (globular with a crescent shaped cap). Those ornamented with coral or amber were used by court women. Those used by men were simpler. "No-ri-gae" that were especially well made were passed down as heirlooms. They also were one of the important items to be exchanged as gifts, especially at New Year. Bells and small cases were added for children. Silver was commonly used for such ornaments in the Chosun Dynasty. The cases were used to contain incense or medicines to revive children, called "cho-sim-hwan". The small tassels worn by children were normally more colourful than those worn by adults. The tassels were made by specialists. Finely-made tassel ornaments are presently being made again.