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Iconographic Meaning

The Japanese apricot flower and chrysanthemum are among those painted by the official class “Yangban” and thus symbolize that class. The images in black are symbols of long life.

Specific Techniques

The garment was sewn inside out with the proper right underarm seam being sewn last. Invisible sewing was used throughout, including that attaching the fur.

Description

Short vest made of green silk brocade patterned with flowers that look like chrysanthemums and apricot blossoms in shades of pink and green, and black designs of cranes, books ?, and a tripod urn. The vest is edged with pink piping and white rabbit fur, and lined with mottled dark rabbit fur. The front panels have a rounded bottom edge. The neckline is a deep V curving up into points at the centre front. It is edged with a narrow facing of white fabric woven in a geometric pattern, sewn on top of an outer facing with rounded lower corners, made of the green fabric and with the pattern aligned.

History Of Use

Such vests reflect western influence on Korean clothing, as they are not an old traditional Korean concept. Women’s and girls’ vests are shorter than those worn by men and boys, as their upper garments “Jo-go-ri” are also shorter. The open neckline allows the ribbon tie of the wearer’s upper garment “Jo-go-ri” to project. Women’s vests are distinguished from men’s in that the outer facing has rounded lower corners. Fur-lined vests were and are worn in winter.

Narrative

Most of the clothing in the J. McRee Elrod Collection was made for him and his family by friends while they were living in Korea, much of it by Kim, Sung Sook. She and her family lived cooperatively in the same house as the Elrod family. While they were there, the Elrods preferred to wear Korean clothing on very cold days and for social occasions. They found it to be more comfortable than western clothing in cold weather, as public buildings were unheated in the period immediately following the Korean War. It also was more comfortable for floor seating in Korean homes, and easier to store with limited furniture than western clothing. The children’s clothing was worn by their children Mark and Lona.