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Iconographic Meaning

The peach shape of the buttons symbolizes long life, and the Chinese character on them represents good fortune. The cloud pattern on the fabric represents long life, while the bat represents good fortune.

Specific Techniques

The garment was sewn inside out and then reversed, making seams invisible.

Narrative

Most of the clothing in the J. McRee Elrod Collection was made for him and his family by friends while they were living in Korea, much of it by Kim, Sung Sook. She and her family lived cooperatively in the same house as the Elrod family. While they were there, the Elrods preferred to wear Korean clothing on very cold days and for social occasions. They found it to be more comfortable than western clothing in cold weather, as public buildings were unheated in the period immediately following the Korean War. It also was more comfortable for floor seating in Korean homes, and easier to store with limited furniture than western clothing. The children’s clothing was worn by their children Mark and Lona.

Description

Brown blouse, or shirt, with pattern. V-neck, wide sleeves, side slits and centre opening with two silver buttons. The buttons are oval and three-dimensional with a Chinese character on each side. The long sleeves are set in with a straight seam and a convex curve on the lower edge, narrowing to the wrist. The pattern has clouds, bats and gourds in silver and orange-brown on brown ground. The inner lining is light blue with a small square pattern.

History Of Use

Such front-closing shirts or jackets originated in China during the Qing Dynasty, and were adopted as items of Korean men’s clothing. The Chinese jackets had frog closings, while those worn in Korea were fastened with two buttons and loops. In the twentieth century they were worn over a western-style vest and the upper body garment “Jo-go-ri” as part of the full set of men’s formal outdoor winter wear. The buttons might be made of precious stones, silver, or gold. Such valuable buttons might be a wedding gift to the groom’s father or brother from the bride’s family, or from the bride to her new father in law. They were a sign of respect, so the recipient might be angry if they were not made of valuable materials. The sets of harmonizing fabrics could be bought together in the market, or might be given as part of the exchanges of gifts at weddings. The “Ma-go-ja” could be worn with the “Jo-go-ri” and vest within the home on special occasions such as New Year’s Day or festivals, when guests might be invited. Normally a man wore the “Jo-go-ri” and vest at home, and would add the “Ma-go-ja” if a guest came. The rounded lower edges of the sleeves and the slight overlap created by the panels added to the front edges are signs of formal wear.