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Specific Techniques

Fabric was hand-woven to a narrow loom width. Seams and hems were machine-sewn. Those that were not placed on the selvedge were double sewn: sewn once, folded and sewn again, and trimmed in a technique called “Kkae-kki”. Facing was hand-sewn with invisible stitching.

History Of Use

Ramie clothing was worn as everyday wear and for special occasions in the summer, for comfort. Women normally wore only oneor two “Jo-go-ri” in summer, with the exception of high-class women, who wore two or three. The cloth was hand-woven by members of special guilds, to a narrow loom-width. During the 1950s the underarm seams were longer than those worn both previously and later, and the garment as a whole was wider, making it more comfortable. Formal wear, however, retained the shorter underarm seams and shorter length. The curve at the lower edge of the sleeve was deeply rounded at this time. Graceful curves, like those at the lower edge of this garment, are important in Korean aesthetics and reflected in various forms, including architecture. After 1955, buttons and other fasteners were often used to fasten “Jo-go-ri”, rather than the wide ribbon ties that had been used until then. In this period of industrialization, it was considered important to have clothing that made it easy to move. If western clothing was not worn, then at least the Korean style clothing should be made more practical. Eliminating the stiff inner collar was another move towards practicality.

Description

Woman’s white ramie jacket. The jacket is shorter than waist-length. It opens at the front centre, with the left side lapping over the right when closed. Panels are added to the front edge on each side to extend the overlap. The deep V-neckline is edged on the outside and inside with a facing 5.5 cm. wide, with a rounded corner on the bottom left and a square corner on the right. A short, narrow inside tie is attached to this square corner with a corresponding tie on the left underarm seam. A triangular tab is attached to the place where the facing joins the front edge and this aligns with a square tab on the right side. The lower edge of the garment curves downward to the centre front. There is a centre back seam. The sleeves are inset with a straight seam and joined with another seam between elbow and wrist. The lower edges of the sleeves have convex curves, narrowing towards the wrist. All hems are very narrow.

Narrative

Most of the clothing in the J. McRee Elrod Collection was made for him and his family by friends while they were living in Korea, much of it by Kim, Sung Sook. She and her family lived cooperatively in the same house as the Elrod family. While they were there, the Elrods preferred to wear Korean clothing on very cold days and for social occasions. They found it to be more comfortable than western clothing in cold weather, as public buildings were unheated in the period immediately following the Korean War. It also was more comfortable for floor seating in Korean homes, and easier to store with limited furniture than western clothing. The children’s clothing was worn by their children Mark and Lona.